Search results

Here are a few creative ideas and knitting inspirations using yarns from the Azun Sport range, whether with a single skein or several! Characteristics of Azun Sport yarns Azun is a yarn made from 1 00% Pyrenean wool , harvested and sorted by hand in the Val d'Azun and processed at the artisanal spinning mill in Niaux. It is a blend of wool from ewes from the lourdaises (57%) and the tarasconnaises (43%). The yarn is available in its beautiful natural ecru colour , as well as in a range of colours obtained by vegetable dyeing and without alum mordant, thanks to the expertise of the Atelier Myrobolan in Felletin, Creuse. A yarn entirely made in France and traceable ! Azun Sport yarn is available in 290 m / 100 g skeins in a range of colours, or in natural coloured cones per kg . It can be knitted with 3 - 3.5 mm needles. Sample after blocking (stockinette), 10x10 cm 23 stitches * 35 rows with 3 mm needles 20 stitches * 33 rows with 3.5 mm needles Azun yarns are authentic : they have a dry feel , roundness and fullness , but they don't sting ! They reflect the local terroir and pay tribute to the ewes that graze in the meadows and mountain pastures. With 1 skein of sport yarn, I can knit a hat! You only need one skein to knit a hat ! For example, I've knitted the #weekendhat by PetiteKnit in Campêche blue. It's a beanie with a double fold at the edges, so it keeps your ears warm. It fits well and is comfortable to wear. For the knitting accessories, you'll need stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and the positions of the decreases, 60 cm circular needles for the main part and 80 cm for magic-loop knitting the small diameter of the tip of the hat. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/weekend-hat-5 Treat yourself to one of the wonderful plant colours in the range! I knit a shawl with 2 skeins! An example of a pattern that can be knitted with any amount of wool is PetiteKnit's #sophieshawl. Simply weigh out the amount of wool you have and use half of it for each part of the pattern. I knitted the #sophieshawl myself with Azun Worsted yarn (the other yarn in the Azun range), which makes a big, fluffy scarf that's perfect for winter, but it's perfectly possible to knit it with Azun Sport yarn, for a finer finish. With 4 skeins or more, I can knit a jumper! It's springtime! It's time to move away from chunky winter jumpers and into lighter, mid-season styles that will keep us warm on chilly mornings. Here, for example, are two gorgeous patterns by Orlane Sucche (@tête_bêche on Instagram) that I knitted recently to experiment with textures using yarns from the Azun Sport range. Neve is knitted in acacia pink and Ilha in natural ecru. The roundness of the yarn makes the twists stand out beautifully. I used around 3.5 skeins for each model (size 2 for the Ilha and size 3 for the Neve). A little tip just for you! As my sample didn't match exactly in number of rows (33 rows for 10 cm with Azun compared to 30 rows in the Neve model, using 3.5 mm needles), I added a few rows of stockinette after the raglan increases, before separating the sleeves from the body. This way you get the right length of yoke! A trick I also used for the Ilha model. Other ideas for jumpers to knit (non-exhaustive list!): Ezra Vest by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ezra-vest Udo by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/udo Forest keys vest par Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/forest-keys-vest Bifurca vest par Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bifurca-vest Yule do by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/yule-do Emsworth byIsabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/emsworth Anker's Cardigan - My Size by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ankers-cardigan---my-size Maggie vest by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/maggie-vest Emy par Mauricette C https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/emy-4 Protea par Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/protea-2 Drevo pullover by Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/drevo-pullover Ophra by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aphra Pinia by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinia-3 Field Day cardigan by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/field-day-cardigan Neve sweater by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/neve-10 Ilha sweater by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ilha I hope you find these yarns as enjoyable as I do! Happy knitting, and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or need advice. See you soon! Fanny from Knitty and Woolly

Here are some creative ideas and knitting inspiration using yarns from the Azun Worsted range. And you'll see that, even though it's a slightly thick yarn, you can knit beautiful summer jackets in no time! Characteristics of Azun Worsted yarns Azun is a yarn made from 100% wool from the Pyrenees , harvested and sorted by hand in the Val d'Azun and processed at the traditional spinning mill in Niaux. It is a blend of wool from from lourdaises (57%) and tarasconnaises (43%) ewes. The yarn is available in its beautiful natural ecru colour , as well as in a range of colours obtained by vegetable dyeing and without alum mordant , thanks to the expertise of the Atelier Myrobolan in Felletin, Creuse. A yarn entirely made in France and traceable ! Azun Worsted yarn is available in 193 m / 100 g skeins in a range of colours, or in cones per kg in natural colours. It can be knitted with 4 - 5 mm needles (a good yarn idea for beginners!). Sample after blocking (stockinette), 10x10 cm 18 stitches * 28 rows with 4 mm needles 17 stitches * 25 rows with 5 mm needles Azun yarns are authentic : they have a dry feel , roundness and fullness , but they don't sting ! They reflect the local terroir and pay homage to the ewes that graze in the meadows and mountain pastures. I knit a shawl with 2 skeins! An example of a pattern that can be knitted with any amount of wool is PetiteKnit's #sophieshawl. Simply weigh out the amount of wool you have and use half of it for each part of the pattern. I knitted the #sophieshawl with 2 skeins in 2 different colours for a two-tone effect, which makes a big fluffy scarf perfect for winter. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sophie-shawl-2 With 3 skeins or more, I can knit a jacket or a sweater! Here are two beautiful designs from Rosa Pomar, the Burgos jacket with buttons, and the Capital V jacket with plunging collar. I really like the idea of these two sleeveless jackets, which can be worn in the summer over a short- or long-sleeved tee, a shirt, a dress, etc. I love the plunging collar on the Capital V with the double-knit detail at the bottom, and the button detail on the Burgos is also very pretty. The loose fit of these jackets makes them really comfortable. I knitted these two jackets with Azun Worsted yarn in rhubarb yellow for the Burgos and oak beige for the Capital V, a natural shade that's easy to match! As well as being a quick and easy project to knit, I used less than 2.5 skeins for each model, in sizes 2 (Burgos) and 3 (Capital V). And good news, you can even knit a headband with less than 50g of yarn leftovers! https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/burgos https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/capital-v-2 Other ideas for jumpers to knit (non-exhaustive list!) Janni by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/janni Calix cardigan by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/calix-cardigan Lakes Pullover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lakes-pullover Highland Slipover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/highland-slipover-2 Earth pullover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/earth-pullover-2 Champagne cardigan by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/champagne-cardigan Pelica vest by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pelica Kallias cardigan by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kallias Abbas by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abbas Towns sweater by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/towns-sweater Bakehouse cardigan by Hook Mountain Handmade https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bakehouse-cardigan Capital V by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/capital-v-2 Burgos by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/burgos Port jacket by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/port-jacket As well as some jacquard designs by Tania Barley: Frost flowers https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/frost-flowers-11 Woodbine https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodbine-6 Taiga https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/taiga-7 I hope you'll find these yarns as enjoyable as I do! Happy knitting, and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or need advice. See you soon! Fanny from Knitty and Woolly

You've probably already heard the story of the woollen jumper that shrunk and felted in the wash... So when it's a garment you've spent hours knitting, you'd rather avoid this kind of mishap! The very idea of having to look after your woollen knitwear can be frightening, or even demotivating, when it comes to embarking on a natural wool knitting project. "A woollen jumper? Too complicated to look after! ". I'd like to reassure you, it's actually very simple and I'll explain why in this article! To understand why wool felts under certain conditions, we need to look at its structure , which is relatively complex (see figure below). The surface of a wool fibre is made up of cuticles, resembling scales that can open and close depending on ambient humidity and temperature . Able to store up to 80% of air in its own volume, wool is warm and cool at the same time! This flaky structure increases its surface area in contact with the air while slowing down its circulation, over a wide temperature range. This characteristic gives wool its insulating power . And that's why we love it: it keeps us warm and can also keep us cool - yes, yes! However, under the effect of mechanical action and in the presence of water and heat (which undeniably happens when you put your wool in the washing machine at 30-40°C and spin it), the scales of the different fibres interlock with each other in an irreversible way (figure opposite)! The wool will never return to its original state. It has felted and this is a disaster for our beloved hand-knitted jumper. Of course, methods have been invented to prevent wool from felting in the wash. These include superwash treatment , which, depending on the chemical treatment used, eliminates or covers the wool's scales (e.g. the chlorine-Hercosett process ). The wool can then be machine-washed without any risk of felting. But you've probably seen it coming, chemically treating wool and removing or covering its scales means it loses its insulating power and, at the same time, its biodegradability (because it has been coated with polymer), and that's a shame, isn't it? What's more, these chemical treatments consume a lot of energy and have an impact on the environment and our health . That's why at Knitty and Woolly you'll only find natural wool that hasn't undergone any chemical treatment . After all, natural wool has so much more to offer! But then, are these scales that open and close really that much of a hassle to look after our woollen clothes? Well, no, it's actually this characteristic of wool that means we don't have to wash our clothes ! "What do you mean you don't wash your woollen jumpers? Well, I reassure you, I do wash them, but maybe once a year, no more! The very structure of wool makes it self-cleaning . And yes, it does the job for us, which is great, isn't it? Here are some of the properties of wool that explain this fact: -Wool can absorb up to 35% of its weight in moisture , which is then released as water vapour into the air (2). As a result, you don't sweat and you avoid unpleasant odours. -The natural properties of wool combine very well to limit the proliferation of bacteria responsible for unpleasant body odours . -Wool doesn't stain , crease or smell . So what should you do to look after your woollen knitwear? Here are a few tips for different situations. Immediately after knitting , there is the first necessary wash , the " blocking ". This is used to give the project its final shape and at the same time to wash it for the first time. To do this, soak your work in warm to cold water with a mild soap-free or special wool detergent. I use a homemade Marseille soap detergent , which is nothing more or less than 20% grated (real) Marseille soap in water (slightly heated to melt the soap). Simply immerse it in the water and leave it alone for at least 20 minutes . Then, gently pick it up without wringing it or letting it relax, and rinse it with clean water to remove any remaining soap. The next stage is spin-drying. As we want to avoid distorting the fabric, we don't twist it! You can first squeeze it between your hands to remove as much water as possible, then lay it flat in a towel and roll it up before walking on it to squeeze the garment. If this sounds like a strange process, I can assure you that it becomes very natural. Finally, it's very important to leave the garment to dry flat to prevent it from becoming misshapen. In general, we use a blocking mat which allows us to use combs to fix the final shape of the garment. A little patience with the drying process and you're done! If it's not stained , simply shake it outside to remove dust and refresh it, or even leave it to cool for a few hours in winter. If you're sceptical, give it a try - you'll be surprised! Of course, there's nothing to stop you giving your knitwear a bath once or twice a year. I'd advise you to do this in summer, as knitwear dries out more quickly in the heat, especially thick winter jumpers. If it's stained (which can of course happen), which I do in these cases if the stain is small, I rub it lightly with a damp cloth . It should go away. If not, you can always soak it again with a little Marseille soap as explained above. And what about plant-dyed wools ? At Knitty and Woolly , the wool is dyed in a workshop that uses traditional vegetable dyes . As this method only uses natural materials, it's normal that the care of the wool requires special attention . But here again, it's very simple . Plant dyes are sensitive to changes in pH . So say goodbye to harsh detergents and turn instead to eco-friendly detergents or homemade Marseille soap detergents. And that's all there is to it! To sum up , natural wool is fascinating because of its complexity and many properties . It doesn't need to be washed often, and that's better for everyone! You save water , energy and soap , so the impact on the environment is limited . And you avoid wearing clothes full of chemicals that are harmful to your health. Taking care of your woollen knitwear has never been easier , as there's not much to do, and I hope that, if you haven't already done so, you'll dare to knit with natural wool ! Don't hesitate to give me your feedback on how to look after your woollen knitwear. See you soon! Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly (1) Hassan MM, Carr CM. A review of the sustainable methods in imparting shrink resistance to wool fabrics. J Adv Res. 2019 Jan 31;18:39-60. doi: 10.1016/j.jare.2019.01.014. PMID: 30788174; PMCID: PMC6369147. (2) Liya Zhou, Xunwei Feng, Yanfeng Du, Yi Li. Characterization of Liquid Moisture Transport Performance of Wool Knitted Fabrics. Textile Research Journal . 2007;77(12):951-956.

It was a surprise that I had in store for you this spring, the arrival of a new colour in the Azun range of natural wool yarns from the Pyrenees, made in France! It's a warm, soft colour that I wanted to celebrate the softness of spring. So I'm delighted to introduce you to Quebracho Pink! Like the other colours in the range, it has been created using vegetable dyeing in the Myrobolan workshop, using traditional methods. It's a soft, luminous pink that differs from Acacia Pink in that it has a hint of yellow-orange. A warm colour that can be knitted on its own or combined with the other colours in the range! For example, this pink goes very well with the warmth of Rhubarb Yellow, or in a subtle gradient with Acacia Pink and Natural Ecru. This colour will also work wonderfully well alongside Bleu de Campêche, a deep, intense midnight blue with a violet tinge. I hope you like this new quebracho pink colour and that it inspires you for your future projects :) See you soon! Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly

Introducing the brand new collection of woven bracelets, the Sun collection. As with the Pyrenees collection, the bracelets are woven from natural Pyrenean wool, but this time with a touch of colour! Source of inspiration for this "Soleil" collection The bracelets in this collection were inspired by a Norwegian painter, Edvard Munch, and in particular by one of his paintings, which I was lucky enough to see at the Munch Museum in Oslo. It is his masterpiece The Sun (1911), which he placed at the centre of his monumental decor for the aula at the University of Oslo, thus expressing his fascination for light, the source of all life. When I entered the exhibition room, I was overcome with emotion at the grandeur and beauty of this painting, which depicts a sunrise over a rocky archipelago in Norway off the coast of Kragerø. The light in this painting, which is over four metres high and seven metres wide, is captivating and illuminates the neighbouring paintings, giving them a different dimension and symbolism. I knew then that I was going to draw inspiration from this painting for my future creations. So each bracelet has a coloured heart at its centre, surrounded by one or more contrasting colours to highlight it. The wool The wool, which comes from lourdaises and tarasconnaises ewes and is collected in the Val d'Azun and sorted by hand before being sent to the spinning mill in the Ariège to be washed. I then take the wool back to my workshop in Belgium, where I live, and spin it into yarn. The wool is natural and has not undergone any chemical treatment. The weft yarns used for the colours come from my own production of Azun Sport yarns, hand-dyed with plants by the Myrobolan workshop in Creuse. The ecru and dark brown colours are the natural colours of the sheep, the grey being obtained by mixing these two colours together. The warp yarn comes from the Fonty spinning mill in France. It's a 100% wool yarn, fine, soft and strong at the same time, which I really appreciate for my weaving. The sizes Each bracelet has a lobster clasp and a small forçat mesh extension chain that can be used to vary the size of the bracelet. Each length is indicated in the bracelet description. I also adapt to your needs. If the proposed sizes don't suit you, we can discuss creating a made-to-measure bracelet together. Don't hesitate to contact me by email at knittyandwoolly@gmail.com or via the contact form, I'll be delighted to help you. Packaging your bracelet Each bracelet is first protected by a sheet of silk paper, which is recyclable and contains no chlorine or acid. The bracelet is then packaged in a European-made box, made from FSC-certified natural cardboard and water-based glue. These boxes contain no foam, which I don't find useful here. The boxes are therefore recyclable, but the main idea is that you can reuse them to store your bracelet or other items of jewellery. Finally, each box is slipped into an organic cotton pouch that you can also reuse to carry all sorts of little things. I really like these pouches, which can easily be slipped into a toiletry bag, for example. I also use them to store my knitting accessories! With this collection, I wanted to convey the emotion that The sun gives me, as its light reveals the beauty of nature and its many colours. I hope you'll enjoy these new designs and feel like adding a touch of light to your everyday life. I hope to see you soon, Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly Choosing a woven bracelet created by Knitty and Woolly means : -adopting a little piece of the Pyrenees, wherever you are -giving yourself or a loved one a unique piece of jewellery, handmade with passion, that has meaning and tells a story -Treat yourself or others while understanding the manufacturing process and the raw materials used in the product. -support craftsmanship and my commitment to the wool industry Advice on caring for your bracelet What should I do if I get a stain? Wool is an exceptional natural fibre with many properties (see the Properties of wool page on my website). One of them is its ability to be self-cleaning and extremely dirt-repellent. It doesn't retain stains like other materials. If for any reason a stain gets on your bracelet, you can follow these recommendations: Soak the bracelet in cold or even lukewarm water (but not hot, and possibly with a mild soap-free detergent or a detergent compatible with wool), and rub very gently with your finger to remove it. Rinse with clean water, without rubbing. -Wax the bracelet by sandwiching it in a towel and pressing it gently, without wringing it. -Dry your bracelet flat. Other tips for looking after your bracelet -It's best not to shower while wearing your bracelet. The combination of hot water and rubbing will cause the wool to felt. Soaps such as shower gel could also damage it. -As with other items of jewellery, avoid pulling hard on it to avoid breaking the fasteners or deforming it.

Many of us love knitting sheep's wool, but do we really know what wool is? I'd like to shed a little light on the subject here, because wool is a complex (and fascinating!) fibre and there's a lot to be said for it. As you may have already noticed, raw wool has a greasy appearance. This is actually a wax with a complex chemical composition, which is used to make lanolin. The fibres are also covered in wool grease, another complex chemical mixture that solubilises in water. It is therefore important to wash the wool thoroughly to remove the grease and wool grease. Wool will lose up to twice its weight after washing! Wool fibre is made up of pith at its centre, surrounded by a cortex. Did you know that most of this cortex is made up of keratin, like our hair? Finally, the surface of the fibre is made up of cuticles, resembling scales that can open and close depending on the climatic conditions (see figure below). This characteristic of wool is its strength, and I'll tell you more about it in a blog post dedicated to caring for your knitwear. First of all, we need to distinguish wool, which has virtually no pith, from hair and jars, which have more pith. It's the latter that you don't want to find in knitting yarn, as these fibres are harder and therefore unpleasant to the touch! So it's important to sort the wool properly to remove the hair and the pith before considering turning it into yarn. Secondly, wool fibres are classified according to their diameter. For example, the finest fibres have a diameter of less than 22 micrometres, and the coarsest have a diameter of more than 36 micrometres. But these values are only averages. In fact, the fineness of wool varies greatly from one breed of sheep to another, from one farm to another within the same breed and even within the same flock. This is particularly true of ewes of the lourdaise breed. Wool from the same flock is very heterogeneous, so it's essential to find the best fibres to use to produce the knitting yarn. This is what I strive to do to offer you quality Pyrenean wool yarns! I hope this article has given you some answers about the structure of wool and don't hesitate to come back to me if you have any questions. Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​

Here it is, it's done! I made my first pattern to knit a cowl. A small project that is easy and quick to make and perfect for experimenting with a few techniques (knit in the round, stripes, twisted ribs)! I warmly thank my testers who agreed to help me perfect the pattern, and their great versions are available on Instagram and on Ravelry! I used a worsted weight yarn held together with a lace silk&mohair yarn for even more softness! The pattern is adapted for a non-mohair yarn version. It is knitted in the round with 5 mm - 60 cm long circular needles. This pattern is available in French and English on my Ravelry account (#autumnstripescowl). Happy knitting!

When you have a creative passion, you want to share it, and why not inspire others to take up the adventure! In this post I'll be sharing my advice on how to get started with knitting without stress :) Do you want to start knitting but don't know where to begin? Which needles, which yarns, which pattern... and what is a sample? There's no need to get discouraged, just learn and progress step by step, without pressure. Personally, I learnt to knit when I was a child with my grandmother, so I don't particularly remember the first time I knitted or made my first stockinette stitches. This may frighten beginners, but there's nothing to worry about! I'm going to describe the key steps for getting started here, and I'll be sharing some tutorials soon! Which yarn to start with? There is a huge variety of yarns. Knitting is generally associated with sheep's wool, but new types of yarn are now emerging (including yarns made from plant-based or recycled materials). There are three main categories: -natural animal fibres: sheep's wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere, angora, etc. -plant fibres: cotton, hemp, linen, silk and nettle -synthetic fibres: acrylic, polyester. I've always preferred fibres from the first category, which are my first choice. To begin with, I don't recommend mohair-type yarns, which are generally a bit hard to handle, unless combined with a second, thicker yarn. You should also be aware that sheep's wool is made up of several sub-categories (the wool can be simply carded, or combed and even treated as 'superwash'). If you'd like to know more about these different categories, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'd be delighted to answer your questions and why not write a dedicated article :) Sometimes, some yarns are a mixture of wool and synthetic fibre (with various ratios). I much prefer 100% wool fibres, because I like to have a material that's warm for winter and cool for the summer months, while still favouring natural fibres. This choice is completely personal, so it's up to you to choose what you prefer; combining it with a synthetic yarn makes it possible to create more original yarns (in terms of colour and/or appearance), which can be very appreciated. What thickness of yarn should I start with? Without hesitation, I recommend a fairly thick thread! It's really easier to see the stitches and understand what you're doing. A very thin yarn will only complicate things, which is what you want to avoid :) You will see the different designations: -lace and fingering: the thinnest, knitted with needles 2 to 3.5 mm in diameter. -Sport and DK yarns: slightly thicker, knitted with needles 3 to 4 mm in diameter. -worsted and aran yarns: for needles 4 to 6 mm in diameter. -Bulky and chunky yarn: really thick, knitted with needles 7 to 10 mm in diameter for bulky yarn and 10 to 15 mm in diameter for chunky yarn. Needles up to 25mm in diameter are also available! So to start with, choose a yarn that can be knitted with at least 4 or 5 mm diameter needles. If you can test different thicknesses to see which one suits you best, that's even better! Knitty and Woolly yarns are available in two bases, Azun Sport and Azun Worsted. The Azun Worsted yarn is a good choice for beginners! What's more, the yarn doesn't split (which shows the very high quality of the spinning), and makes knitting easier when you're just starting out. Needles Have you ever browsed online haberdashery sites, in the knitting needles section? Between straight needles, circular needles, needles with interchangeable cables, mini needles and double point needles... There's plenty to pull out your hair! To begin with, I recommend choosing straight or circular needles (which are shorter than straight needles and linked together by a cable of variable length). However, getting to grips with them is not at all the same. I started knitting with straight needles, but now I have to admit that I prefer circular needles, as they are easier to handle and more pleasant to work with. What's more, it's perfectly possible to use circular needles to knit in rows back and forth, just as you would with straight needles. Given that most knitting patterns use circular needles, I think this is a good investment. If you have the opportunity to try out both, that's obviously the best thing, as everyone has their own sensations and tastes, but you could quickly be limited by the designs. Secondly, circular needles with interchangeable cables are really practical: depending on the size of the project, you can adapt the cable, which unscrews from the needle, while keeping the same needle size. This avoids having needles of a certain size for each length of cable (which can vary from 20 cm to 120 cm in intervals of 20 cm... which would be a lot!), but you'll still have to buy cables of different lengths. The option of fixed circular needles is still very interesting, if you don't want to go to the trouble of changing cables and needles, or if your range of knitting projects is rather limited (by which I mean, if you mainly knit caps or chokers, you'll more often use 60 cm and 80/100 cm needles, so you might as well have fixed needles). Personally, I knit with a mixture of these two types of circular needles! As for the material of the needles, here again there are several possible choices: metal, bamboo, wood or plastic. Apart from personal taste, the choice depends partly on the wool you're using: metal needles will be slippery (more so than wooden or plastic needles), so they're particularly suitable for mohair, for example. I've never tried plastic needles, so I can't give my opinion on them; wooden needles are generally favoured by knitters (I prefer them!). Finally, you may have heard of the magic-loop technique for knitting small diameters, such as socks, sleeves or the tip of a hat; for this technique you'll need circular needles with a 60 to 80 cm cable, but you can also use mini circular needles 23 or 30 cm long (cable and needles included), or double-point needles (4 needles are required and sold in sets). Personally, I've opted for these tiny needles and I love them! They come with fixed or interchangeable cables. It's worth noting that these are really tiny needles, which can be a bit tricky to hold... Finally, the diameter of the needles, expressed in millimetres, will depend on the thickness of the thread you choose (see Which thread to choose). When you buy wool, the needle size is normally indicated on the label! On my online shop, you'll find all the basic equipment, including beautiful wooden needles from KnitPro and stitch markers made in my workshop! Which pattern to start with? The headband This is the project I suggest to beginners who come to my workshops. You can knit a headband with less than 50g of wool, and it's a "useful" knit, an accessory that you can wear proudly afterwards. The easiest way to knit a headband is to knit a strip in moss stitch in rows going back and forth (so only single stitches), and sew the ends together to make a pretty bow on the front. The advantage is that you can knit it with circular needles, even if it's knitted in rows going back and forth. You'll need a cable at least 60 cm long to give you enough latitude between the two needles. What's more, it's quick to knit and good for morale when you start knitting! The cowl This is THE ideal project for getting started with circular knitting! It's knitted in a circular pattern and you only need one pair of circular needles (usually 60 cm). You'll be able to experiment (but without breaking the bank on materials) with right-sided jersey, more original stitches like ribbing, and a variety of colours (stripes, jacquard even for the most daring!). It's a great way to have fun, while learning the basic techniques of circular knitting (setting up stitches, joining in the round, folding over). The swatch... But before we get started, let's get back to the sample or swatch thing... I'm sure you've already heard about it, and if you haven't already, you will soon :) On the face of it, you'd be tempted to skip this stage, which seems a bit daunting because you're so keen to get started. But if you want your project to be a success and the final size to correspond to the model's intended size, it's an essential step! But what does it actually involve, and why is it so important? A sample is a piece of knitted fabric in which you have to count the number of stitches and rows obtained in a 10 cm by 10 cm square, after having 'blocked' it (i.e. washed it in a bath of cold to lukewarm water with a little washing-up liquid and then dried it flat with combs or blocking pins). When you choose a model, it is designed for a particular thread (thickness), combined with needles corresponding to its size. For example, you might be told: "sample (10 x 10 cm): 24 stitches x 34 rows with 3.75 mm needles". But everyone has their own "tension" when it comes to knitting: you may tend to knit a little loosely, or too tightly. As a result, the size of the sample may vary from one person to another and the final project may not have the intended dimensions. For example, if you knit too tightly (so you've got more stitches and rows in the 10x10 cm square), you'll need to choose a larger needle size. This way, the final project will be the right size! So even though this step may seem tedious (because you have to block the sample and it takes a bit of time), it's very important. This is also the case if you want to create your own pattern: for a 30 cm wide scarf, for example, you need to know how many stitches to make to get 30 cm and how many rows to make to get the desired length of scarf. You don't need to buy a pattern for a scarf. You can decide to create it yourself from A to Z, taking the time to make a sample to estimate the dimensions. Thread, needles...and that's it? Well, not quite. It's very useful to have a wool needle for any seams, a pair of scissors, stitch markers for knitting in the round (and marking the start of the round or whatever), and a ruler for measuring your sample. If you have crochet hooks, they are also very useful in knitting, for example to repair a mistake or to lift stitches on a neckline. And there you have it, now you've got all you need to start knitting without stress! And if you need any help, I'm here to guide you! Good luck to you :) #bloggingtips #WixBlog

I'd like to present my first collection of handwoven bracelets from local wool from the Pyrenees. These bracelets are unique pieces of jewellery, reflecting the local terroir and combining pleasure and eco-responsibility as far as possible. These bracelets can be worn all year round and can be combined with all types of clothing and textiles. What's more, the neutral colours can easily be combined with many of the colours in your wardrobe. This collection, which I've named Pyrénées, is the fruit of a great deal of thought and hard work in my studio. Let me tell you the story. Wool Wool, at the heart of the Knitty and Woolly story, is the main raw material for these jewels. It's wool that I harvested in the Val d'Azun in the Pyrenees, where I'm originally from, from lourdaises and tarasconnaises ewes. I wanted to show the full potential of these wools in handmade creations, particularly the wool of the endangered lourdaise ewe. The wool is sorted by hand and then sent to the Filature de Niaux in Ariège to be washed. I then take the wool back to my workshop in Belgium, where I live, and transform it into yarn. The wool is natural and has not undergone any chemical treatment. Making the weft thread There are several stages involved in making these woven bracelets. First, the wool has to be transformed into yarn! To do this, I first card it by hand, then spin it on a spinning wheel. It's quite a long manufacturing process, to obtain small quantities of unique yarn. Whether it's the number of strands, the thickness or the spinning parameters such as tension and twist, I carried out several trials to create the ideal yarn for weaving these bracelets. Research and development, so to speak! Inspirations et couleurs For this first collection, I wanted to create bracelets in raw, natural tones, inspired by the natural colours of nature in the Pyrenees. These raw tones, in shades of ecru, grey and dark brown, refer to the colour of sheep, mineral materials such as rock and slate, and the earth. The different colour tones are obtained by mixing dark brown fleece wool with ecru wool. This enabled me to create a range of greys to enrich the palette of natural colours offered by the sheep. Each yarn created is unique and authentic. Traceability As with the production of Azun knitting yarns, the question of the traceability of raw materials was essential. That's why I chose a warp yarn from the Fonty spinning mill in France. It's a 100% wool yarn, fine, soft and strong at the same time, which I really appreciate for my weaving. As for the finish on these bracelets, I opted for classic jewellery clasps. I love the finish given by the metal. The clasps are gold- or silver-plated, and made in Europe. The sizes Each bracelet has a lobster clasp and a small forçat mesh extension chain that can be used to vary the size of the bracelet. Each length is indicated in the bracelet description. I can also adapt to your needs. If the proposed sizes do not suit you, we can discuss together the creation of a made-to-measure bracelet. Don't hesitate to contact me by email at knittyandwoolly@gmail.com or via the contact form, I'll be happy to help! Packaging your bracelet Each bracelet is first protected by a sheet of silk paper, which is recyclable and contains no chlorine or acid. The bracelet is then packaged in a European-made box, made from FSC-certified natural cardboard and water-based glue. These boxes contain no foam, which I don't find useful here. The boxes are therefore recyclable, but the main idea is that you can reuse them to store your bracelet or other items of jewellery. Finally, each box is slipped into an organic cotton pouch that you can also reuse to carry all sorts of little things. I really like these pouches, which can easily be slipped into a toiletry bag, for example. I also use them to store my knitting accessories! You now know the story of these handwoven wool bracelets and how they are made. I hope that my approach has spoken to you and that these values mean something to you. See you soon! Fanny from Knitty and Woolly Choosing a woven bracelet created by Knitty and Woolly means : -adopting a little piece of the Pyrenees, wherever you are -giving yourself or a loved one a unique piece of jewellery, handmade with passion, that has meaning and tells a story -Treat yourself or others while understanding the manufacturing process and the raw materials used in the product. -support craftsmanship and my commitment to the wool sector Advice on caring for your bracelet What should I do if I get a stain? Wool is an exceptional natural fibre with many properties (see the Wool properties page on my website). One of them is its ability to be self-cleaning and extremely dirt-repellent. It doesn't retain stains like other materials. If for any reason a stain gets on your bracelet, you can follow these recommendations: Soak the bracelet in cold or even lukewarm water (but not warm, and possibly with a mild soap-free detergent or a detergent compatible with wool), and rub very gently with your finger to remove it. Rinse with clean water, without rubbing. -Spin-dry the bracelet by sandwiching it in a towel and pressing it gently, without wringing it. -Dry your bracelet flat. Other tips for looking after your bracelet -It's best not to shower while wearing your bracelet. The combination of hot water and rubbing will cause the wool to felt. Soaps such as shower gel could also damage it. -As with other items of jewellery, avoid pulling hard on it to avoid breaking the fasteners or deforming it.

In this article, I'd like to explain why wool inspires me so much in my day-to-day work, and share with you the values I uphold. Wool, and more specifically sheep's wool, has been used for thousands of years in the manufacture of textiles. Easily accessible, it is naturally renewable because it always grows back after being cut from the sheep's back. Made up of protein fibres (keratin), wool products can easily be biodegraded at the end of their life cycle by micro-organisms [1]. Its physico-chemical properties make this fibre very interesting and unique. For example, its scale-like structure increases its surface area in contact with the air while slowing down its circulation, over a wide range of temperatures. So it doesn't just keep you warm, it keeps you cool. It can also absorb up to 35% of its weight in moisture, which is then released as water vapour into the air [2]. So we stay dry too! Despite their many advantages, cheaper synthetics have gradually taken over from wool and other natural materials in the global textile market, and are now making their way into our wardrobes. And yes, most of our clothes are now made of plastics! Synthetic materials, produced from hydrocarbons, are also dyed with chemical dyes derived from petroleum, which have direct and harmful consequences for the human health of workers and consumers, and of course for the environment, which is greatly impacted. According to ADEME, dyeing alone is responsible for 20% of the world's water pollution. Wool, on the other hand, has become a noble material, used to make mid-range and top-of-the-range products. So what do we do about it? Fortunately, it's not all doom and gloom, as some voices are speaking out in favour of change, in terms of both practices and attitudes. Many players have decided to (re)turn to natural raw materials that respect the environment, animals and people. Wool is one of them. But we have a long way to go, because the wool industry in France and more widely in Europe has seen a drastic decline in activity over the last few decades. So we need to rebuild, to recreate the link between the land, the animals, the breeders and the new players in the industry. We also had to recreate the link with the machines and the technical know-how that had been lost or forgotten. All this is taking shape again now, and it's an incredible source of energy. Together, I'm convinced we can do a lot, and there's so much to do! All these ideas about the environment, biodiversity and our way of life are fundamental to me and guide me on a daily basis. They were passed on to me by my parents and grandparents, and by the place where I grew up, the Pyrenees. An area that is still partly unspoilt, but that needs to be protected. That's where the Lourdaise ewe comes in. A breed of ewe that is emblematic of the Pyrenees, yet still endangered to this day. So when my father undertook to help save it over thirty years ago, he may not have imagined that I would be continuing the fight in my own way: by adding value to its wool. This material, which is harvested every year (because it is essential for the health of the animals), generally earns nothing for the breeders, who are faced with competition from foreign wools. As a result, the wool accumulates and the breeders, no longer knowing what to do with it, even come to describe it as waste. Faced with this situation, I wanted to get involved in the wool industry to promote this noble material and give it back its rightful place. Wool itself fascinates me. Its feel, its structure, its shape, its colour. Its many properties too, which demonstrate the power of this natural fibre. And all the things you can do with it. As I said earlier, wool has been used for thousands of years to make clothes. And back then, it took so much time to spin yarn on a spinning wheel or spindle that the rare garments that were created were precious and darned as much as possible when needed. Nowadays, spinning mills and industrial spinning mills can produce yarn in larger quantities and more quickly than by hand. All the wool needs is to be processed. So we have yarn available to us, ready to be knitted, woven, crocheted... It's no less important to reuse and repair as much as possible. My positioning in this sector was clear from the outset: I wanted to offer a natural, traceable wool yarn that reflects its terroir and is produced in a way that respects animals, people and the environment as far as possible. By natural wool, I mean: -wool that has not been carbonised (a chemical process requiring sulfuric acid to destroy plant debris), but simply subjected to the mechanical action of machines to remove as much of this debris as possible (not forgetting the little hands at the sorting stage) -wool that has not been treated 'superwash', a process that involves applying a resin to the fibre to prevent it from felting when the garment is washed (at the same time reducing its insulating properties) -wool that has not been dyed with synthetic dyes, but rather with vegetable dyes, by hand and without the use of synthetic alum mordants. In this way, the wool retains all its natural properties and the resulting yarn is all the more authentic. When I was looking for partners to take care of the various stages of processing, I wanted to turn to local, artisanal companies that have all these skills. There aren't many of them, but they do exist. And thanks to the Filature de Niaux in Ariège and the Myrobolan workshop in Creuse, the result is there. I'm so proud and happy. Now we just have to keep going - it's only the beginning! On the other hand, I wanted to offer hand-spun wool creations. For me, working with this fibre by hand from A to Z is essential. It allows you to connect with and understand the material, to acquire skills and techniques, and simply to take the time. What's more, a handmade creation tells a story, reflects the personality of its creator and reflects values... Values that I can share and pass on during creative workshops, which are also rich in human encounters. I hope that these few words have aroused your curiosity and that you have found yourself somewhere in all this. I look forward to hearing from you, so don't hesitate to drop me a line! Références [1] The wool handbook, Morphology, Structure, Properties, Processing, and Applications The Textile Institute Book Series, 2024, Pages 401-440 [2] J. Chybik, Natural Building Materials, 978-80-247-2532-1, Grada Publishing, a.s., Prague, Czech Republic (2009)

s you will have noticed, it is rare to finish all your balls of yarn after a project. This is particularly true for jacquard, as the yoke patterns do not usually require a whole ball! But then, what to do with these leftovers of wool? There are several options, and that's good! There are plenty of small knitting projects that require little amount of yarn. There is of course the headband, an essential accessory to keep your ears warm! But it is also possible to make jewelry such as earrings. I show you a photo example here. Finally, when there is a little more wool left, you can make a hat. It's quick to knit and so useful for winter. It's the kind of little knitting project that makes you happy! I also have the idea of ​​knitting a sweater when I have enough leftovers of yarn that can be combined together. But it's not for now :)

I told you about it the first time a few months ago, here it is! The pattern is finally available in French and English on Ravelry.com. Thank you once again to my testers, who knitted the sweater in all sizes to correct any possible errors in the pattern, but also to show you what it could look like in other colors and sizes! All versions are available in pictures on my Instagram account (#aspinsweater) and Ravelry, so be sure to check them out! But by the way, why the "Aspin" sweater? I couldn't quite decide on a name. It's not so easy after all, although it may seem obvious. So I called on my knitter friends and thanks to their ideas, I finally managed to find it! Aspin refers to a famous pass in the Pyrenees, where I grew up. I wanted to give a name that looks like me and that speaks to me, so here it is, the choice has been made! I then worked on a second version, with the contrasting color only used for the jacquard. Once again I used a worsted weigh yarn, Gilliatt base from De Rerum Natura, a safe bet for a cozy and warm sweater! Aspin is a loose, very comfortable and fluffy sweater with dropped shoulders. Its turtleneck brings a lot of warmth. It has a nice finish on the shoulders and pretty jacquard details on the body and sleeves that give it a little Nordic and wild side. The Aspin sweater is worked from bottom to top, without seams. We start with the body in the circular, then the front and back are worked in back and forth rows after separating the sleeves from the body. The shoulders are then sewn with the 3-needle bind-off method for a nice finish, then the collar is made in the circular. Finally, the sleeves are also worked in the circular, after picking up the stitches around the armholes. Do you have any questions about this pattern? Contact me by email or see all the detailed information on Ravelry (needles used, yardage, gauge etc...). See you soon !