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Here are some creative ideas and knitting inspiration using Azun and Peira Worsted yarns, Pyrenean wool for knitting. And you'll see that, even though it's a slightly thick yarn, you can knit beautiful summer jackets in no time! Characteristics of Azun and Peira Worsted yarns Azun and Peira yarns are made from 100% wool from the Pyrenees , carefully selected, harvested and sorted by hand in the Val d'Azun and processed at the traditional spinning mill in Niaux. It is a blend of wool from from lourdaises and tarasconnaises ewes, two local sheep breeds. Azun yarn is available in its beautiful natural ecru colour , as well as in a range of colours obtained by vegetable dyeing and without alum mordant , thanks to the expertise of the Atelier Myrobolan in Felletin, Creuse. Peira yarn is available in its natural mottled grey colour , obtained by blending unbleached and black wool. Yarns entirely made in France and traceable ! Azun (3 strands, 193 m / 100 g) and Peira (3 strands, 183 m / 100 g) yarns are available as 100 g skeins, 50 g balls in several colours, or as cones per kg in natural colour. They are knitted with 4 - 5 mm needles (a good yarn idea for beginners) and can be knitted together! Sample after blocking (stockinette) with   Azun   on 10x10 cm 18 stitches * 28 rows with 4 mm needles 17 stitches * 25 rows with 5 mm needles Sample after blocking (stockinette) with   Peira   on 10x10 cm 18 mailles * 28 rangs avec aiguilles 4 mm 17 mailles * 26 rangs avec aiguilles 5 mm Azun and Peira yarns are authentic : they have a dry feel , roundness and fullness , but they don't sting ! They reflect the local terroir and pay homage to the ewes that graze in the meadows and mountain pastures. Here are some knitting ideas to create a sustainable wardrobe using natural wool from the Pyrenees :) Happy knitting! With 1 skein, I knit a hat! Introducing the Azun goes to Berlin beanie, created in collaboration with Alice im wolleland ! The design stands out for its central band, which elegantly marks the tapers, and its folded ribbed brim to keep the ears nice and warm. This project is not only quick and easy to make, but also very practical for winter. A single 100 g skein is all you need to make this cosy hat, which is sure to become a winter wardrobe staple. I knit a shawl or a turtleneck with 2 skeins! An example of a pattern that can be knitted with any amount of wool is PetiteKnit's Sophie shawl . Simply weigh out the amount of wool you have and use half of it for each part of the pattern. I knitted the Sophie shawl with 2 skeins in 2 different colours for a two-tone effect, which makes a big fluffy scarf perfect for winter. Not a big fan of scarves? A turtleneck is a great alternative! A warm turtleneck with your back and shoulders covered is so practical! I knitted the Terrazzo neck from PetiteKnit with my new Peira Worsted yarn, in single thread (in the pattern, it says to double it with a mohair thread, but the Peira thread is more than enough on its own :). ). https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sophie-shawl-2 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/terrazzo-neck With 3 skeins or more, I can knit a jacket or a sweater! Here are two beautiful designs from Rosa Pomar , the Burgos vest with buttons, and the Capital V vest with plunging collar. I really like the idea of these two sleeveless jackets, which can be worn in the summer over a short- or long-sleeved tee, a shirt, a dress, etc. I love the plunging collar on the Capital V with the double-knit detail at the bottom, and the button detail on the Burgos is also very pretty. The loose fit of these jackets makes them really comfortable. I knitted these two vests with Azun Worsted yarn in rhubarb yellow for the Burgos and oak beige for the Capital V, a natural shade that's easy to match! As well as being a quick and easy project to knit, I used less than 2.5 skeins for each model, in sizes 2 (Burgos) and 3 (Capital V). And good news, you can even knit a headband with less than 50g of yarn leftovers! I'd also like to introduce you to Rosa Pomar's Pelica jacket, a shepherd's jacket in moss stitch with an i-cord finish (which, by the way, goes perfectly with the #sophieshawl :) ). I knitted size 3 in the natural ecru colour, for an even more authentic look. In total, I needed 350g of wool (not including the swatch). I love the loose, very comfortable fit, another jacket you can wear all the time. The added bonus is the pretty buttons, which I chose in the forest green colour from Atelier Brunette . https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/burgos https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/capital-v-2 https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pelica Other ideas for jumpers to knit (non-exhaustive list!) Janni by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/janni Calix cardigan by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/calix-cardigan Lakes Pullover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/lakes-pullover Highland Slipover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/highland-slipover-2 Earth pullover by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/earth-pullover-2 Champagne cardigan by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/champagne-cardigan Pelica vest by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pelica Kallias cardigan by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kallias Abbas by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abbas Towns sweater by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/towns-sweater Bakehouse cardigan by Hook Mountain Handmade https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bakehouse-cardigan Capital V by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/capital-v-2 Burgos by Rosa Pomar https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/burgos Port jacket by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/port-jacket Sunday brunch by Hiromi Nagasawa https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sunday-brunch-sweater Bergman sweater by Caitlin Hunter https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bergman-sweater As well as some jacquard designs by Tania Barley: Frost flowers https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/frost-flowers-11 Woodbine https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodbine-6 Taiga https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/taiga-7 I hope you'll find these yarns as enjoyable as I do! Happy knitting, and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or need advice. See you soon! Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly

Here are some creative ideas and knitting inspiration using Azun and Peira Sport yarns, Pyrenean wool for knitting, whether with a single skein or several! Characteristics of Azun and Peira Sport yarns Azun  and Peira yarns are made from 100% wool from the Pyrenees , carefully selected, harvested and sorted by hand  in the Val d'Azun and processed at the traditional spinning mill  in Niaux. It is a blend of wool from from lourdaises  and tarasconnaises  ewes, two local sheep breeds. Azun yarn is available in its beautiful natural ecru colour , as well as in a range of colours obtained by vegetable dyeing  and without alum mordant , thanks to the expertise of the Atelier Myrobolan in Felletin, Creuse. Peira  yarn is available in its natural mottled grey colour , obtained by blending unbleached and black wool. Yarns entirely made in France and traceable ! Azun (2 strands, 290 m / 100 g) and Peira (2 strands, 175 m / 100 g) yarns are available as 100 g skeins, 50 g balls in several colours, or as cones per kg in natural colour. They are knitted with 3 - 3.5 mm needles and can be knitted together! Sample after blocking (stockinette) with Azun , 10x10 cm 23 stitches * 35 rows with 3 mm needles 20 stitches * 33 rows with 3.5 mm needles Sample after blocking (stockinette) with Peira , 10x10 cm 23 stitches * 36 rows with 3 mm needles 22 stitches * 34 rows with 3.5 mm needles Azun  and Peira  yarns are authentic : they have a dry feel , roundness  and fullness , but they don't sting ! They reflect the local terroir  and pay homage to the ewes that graze in the meadows and mountain pastures. Here are some knitting ideas  to create a sustainable wardrobe  using natural wool from the Pyrenees :) Happy knitting! With 1 skein of sport yarn, I can knit a hat! You only need one skein to knit a hat ! For example, I've knitted the #weekendhat by PetiteKnit in Campêche blue. It's a beanie with a double fold at the edges, so it keeps your ears warm. It fits well and is comfortable to wear. For the knitting accessories, you'll need stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and the positions of the decreases, 60 cm circular needles for the main part and 80 cm for magic-loop knitting the small diameter of the tip of the hat. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/weekend-hat-5 Treat yourself to one of the wonderful plant colours in the range! I knit a shawl with 2 skeins! An example of a pattern that can be knitted with any amount of wool is PetiteKnit's #sophieshawl. Simply weigh out the amount of wool you have and use half of it for each part of the pattern. I knitted the #sophieshawl myself with Azun Worsted yarn (the other yarn in the Azun range), which makes a big, fluffy scarf that's perfect for winter, but it's perfectly possible to knit it with Azun Sport yarn, for a finer finish. With 4 skeins or more, I can knit a jumper! It's springtime! It's time to move away from chunky winter jumpers and into lighter, mid-season styles that will keep us warm on chilly mornings. Here, for example, are two gorgeous patterns by Orlane Sucche (@tête_bêche on Instagram) that I knitted recently to experiment with textures using yarns from the Azun Sport range. Neve is knitted in acacia pink and Ilha in natural ecru. The roundness of the yarn makes the twists stand out beautifully. I used around 3.5 skeins for each model (size 2 for the Ilha and size 3 for the Neve). A little tip just for you! As my sample didn't match exactly in number of rows (33 rows for 10 cm with Azun compared to 30 rows in the Neve model, using 3.5 mm needles), I added a few rows of stockinette after the raglan increases, before separating the sleeves from the body. This way you get the right length of yoke! A trick I also used for the Ilha model. Other ideas for jumpers to knit (non-exhaustive list!): Ezra Vest by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ezra-vest Udo by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/udo Forest keys vest par Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/forest-keys-vest Bifurca vest par Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bifurca-vest Yule do by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/yule-do Emsworth byIsabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/emsworth Anker's Cardigan - My Size by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ankers-cardigan---my-size Maggie vest by PetiteKnit https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/maggie-vest Emy par Mauricette C https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/emy-4 Protea par Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/protea-2 Drevo pullover by Teti Lutsak https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/drevo-pullover Ophra by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/aphra Pinia by Isabell Kraemer https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/pinia-3 Field Day cardigan by Ozetta https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/field-day-cardigan Neve sweater by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/neve-10 Ilha sweater by Orlane Sucche https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ilha I hope you find these yarns as enjoyable as I do! Happy knitting, and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or need advice. See you soon! Fanny from Knitty and Woolly

I'm delighted to introduce a brand new collection of handwoven bracelets, the Matières collection . This collection is the fruit of a reflection on the choice of new natural materials , as well as on the finishing touches to achieve even greater simplicity . The Matières collection consists of bracelets woven from natural wool from the Pyrenees , blended with French linen , a plant-based material with a unique feel and incredible strength. A collection with multiple sources of inspiration Linen is a natural plant material grown mainly in north-west France. Like wool, it has a number of virtues, including lightness, great strength and high absorbency. As a result, it is increasingly used in the textile sector, and is a material I prefer for my summer wardrobe because of its greater absorbency than cotton. What's more, growing linen doesn't require pesticides or a lot of water, but it's a delicate process because it's very weather-dependent (the amount of sunshine and water has to be kept to a minimum). It feels very different to wool, which is why I thought it would be interesting to combine them to create natural variations in texture. Its solidity also makes it the yarn of choice for long-lasting bracelets that can be worn every day. The combination of these two materials of plant and animal origin gives these bracelets a special character, and allowed me to experiment with new weaving techniques. The choice of bright colours contrasts with the colour of the wool, which I chose to keep natural (undyed yarns). Each bracelet is unique, meaning that it is not the result of a model that I reproduce. I create each piece according to my imagination, which is generally inspired by the material, the colours and the desire to experiment with textures, as well as by my current feelings. Linen and wool I used linen as the warp thread. It comes from the Fonty spinning mill in France. It's 100% French linen, fine, soft and very strong. For the weft yarns, I combined this same linen with wool from lourdaises and tarasconnaises ewes, collected in the Val d'Azun (High Pyrenees, France) and sorted by hand by myself before being sent to the Filature de Niaux in Ariège to be washed. I then take the wool back to my workshop in Belgium, where I live, and spin it into yarn. The wool is natural and has undergone no chemical treatment. The colours ecru and dark brown are the natural colours of the sheep, the grey being obtained by mixing these two colours in various proportions. Sizes Each bracelet is finished in linen with a macramé sliding knot that allows for a wider range of sizes. Each minimum and maximum length is indicated in the bracelet description. I can also adapt to your needs. If the proposed sizes don't suit you, we can discuss creating a made-to-measure bracelet together. Don't hesitate to contact me by email at knittyandwoolly@gmail.com or via the contact form, I'll be happy to advise you. Packaging your bracelet Each bracelet is first protected by a sheet of silk paper, which is recyclable and contains no chlorine or acid. The bracelet is then packaged in a European-made box, made from FSC-certified natural cardboard and water-based glue. These boxes contain no foam, which I don't find useful here. The boxes are therefore recyclable, but the main idea is that you can reuse them to store your bracelet or other items of jewellery. Finally, each box is slipped into an organic cotton pouch that you can also reuse to carry all sorts of little things. I really like these pouches, which can easily be slipped into a toiletry bag, for example. I also use them to store my knitting accessories! I hope you'll enjoy these new models of woven wool and linen bracelets, and that they'll inspire you to find out more about these two extraordinary materials. I hope to see you soon, Fanny Fondatrice de Knitty and Woolly Choosing a woven bracelet created by Knitty and Woolly means : -Adopting a little piece of the Pyrenees, wherever you are -Giving yourself or a loved one a unique piece of jewellery, handmade with passion, that has meaning and tells a story -Treat yourself or others while understanding the manufacturing process and the raw materials used in the product. -Support the craft industry and my commitment to the wool industry Care instructions for your bracelet What should I do if I get a stain? Wool is an exceptional natural fibre with many properties (see the Properties of wool page on my website). One of these is its ability to be self-cleaning and very dirt-repellent. It doesn't retain stains like other materials. If for any reason a stain gets on your bracelet, you can follow these recommendations: Soak the bracelet in cold or even lukewarm water (but not hot, and possibly with a mild soap-free detergent or a detergent compatible with wool), and rub very gently with your finger to remove it. Rinse with clean water, without rubbing. -Wax the bracelet by sandwiching it in a towel and pressing it gently, without wringing it. -Dry your bracelet flat. Other tips for looking after your bracelet -It's best not to shower with your bracelet on. The combination of hot water and rubbing will cause the wool to felt. Soaps such as shower gel could also damage it. -As with other items of jewellery, avoid pulling hard on it to avoid breaking the fasteners or deforming it.

Here's a method for creating knitting decreases (k2tog and SSK) without a staircase effect around a stitch marker. They are shown here on stockinette stitch. Decrease 2 stitches together will make the knit lean to the left, while decrease SSK will make it lean to the right. To be used in the Méli mélo hat Decrease row instructions: Knit to 3 sts before M, k2tog, k1, SM, k1, SSK , knit to end of rw SSK : Slip the first stitch knitwise, slip the second stitch purlwise then knit by inserting the left needle, from left to right, into the two slipped stitches, by their front strand. Knit them together Abbreviations: rw: row st(s): stitche(s) M: marker SM: slide marker k: knit k2tog: knit 2 together SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit

Here's how to make double knitting rows. This technique is used in the Azun goes to Berlin  hat pattern and will allow you to fold the ribbing nicely! To be used in the Azun goes to Berlin hat

To my knowledge, this is one of the most common methods of knitting stitches. It provides a flexible yet solid construction. If you're new to knitting, don't be afraid to learn this technique from the outset - it's easy to pick up after a bit of practice. The long-tail cast-on method allows you to achieve a fairly flexible construction of your stitches. It can be used, for example, to assemble the stitches of a round neck or a hat, but also for flat assemblies (in rows going back and forth). Details of the technique : You'll need a certain length of thread on one side, connected to the ball on the other (see video). At first, you don't always know how much yarn to put aside, and if it's not enough you have to start all over again. If in doubt, use more thread. In general, whether you're knitting a collar or a bonnet, 1.5 m of yarn wide should be enough. For circular knitting, it's best not to make a slip knot for the first stitch, to avoid the staircase effect in the next row and an ugly knot sticking out. Instead, simply make a loop on the needle as I show in the video, and this loop will be the first stitch. If you're knitting flat, a slipknot will be the first stitch. A little extra advice: don't knit your stitches too tightly, to retain the benefits of this rather flexible knitting technique. Happy knitting and see you soon with new tutorials! Fanny

You've probably already heard the story of the woollen jumper that shrunk and felted in the wash... So when it's a garment you've spent hours knitting, you'd rather avoid this kind of mishap! The very idea of having to look after your woollen knitwear can be frightening, or even demotivating, when it comes to embarking on a natural wool knitting project. "A woollen jumper? Too complicated to look after! ". I'd like to reassure you, it's actually very simple and I'll explain why in this article! To understand why wool felts under certain conditions, we need to look at its structure , which is relatively complex (see figure below). The surface of a wool fibre is made up of cuticles, resembling scales that can open and close depending on ambient humidity and temperature . Able to store up to 80% of air in its own volume, wool is warm and cool at the same time! This flaky structure increases its surface area in contact with the air while slowing down its circulation, over a wide temperature range. This characteristic gives wool its insulating power . And that's why we love it: it keeps us warm and can also keep us cool - yes, yes! However, under the effect of mechanical action and in the presence of water and heat (which undeniably happens when you put your wool in the washing machine at 30-40°C and spin it), the scales of the different fibres interlock with each other in an irreversible way (figure opposite)! The wool will never return to its original state. It has felted and this is a disaster for our beloved hand-knitted jumper. Of course, methods have been invented to prevent wool from felting in the wash. These include superwash treatment , which, depending on the chemical treatment used, eliminates or covers the wool's scales (e.g. the chlorine-Hercosett process ). The wool can then be machine-washed without any risk of felting. But you've probably seen it coming, chemically treating wool and removing or covering its scales means it loses its insulating power and, at the same time, its biodegradability (because it has been coated with polymer), and that's a shame, isn't it? What's more, these chemical treatments consume a lot of energy and have an impact on the environment and our health . That's why at Knitty and Woolly you'll only find natural wool that hasn't undergone any chemical treatment . After all, natural wool has so much more to offer! But then, are these scales that open and close really that much of a hassle to look after our woollen clothes? Well, no, it's actually this characteristic of wool that means we don't have to wash our clothes ! "What do you mean you don't wash your woollen jumpers? Well, I reassure you, I do wash them, but maybe once a year, no more! The very structure of wool makes it self-cleaning . And yes, it does the job for us, which is great, isn't it? Here are some of the properties of wool that explain this fact: -Wool can absorb up to 35% of its weight in moisture , which is then released as water vapour into the air (2). As a result, you don't sweat and you avoid unpleasant odours. -The natural properties of wool combine very well to limit the proliferation of bacteria responsible for unpleasant body odours . -Wool doesn't stain , crease or smell . So what should you do to look after your woollen knitwear? Here are a few tips for different situations. Immediately after knitting , there is the first necessary wash , the " blocking ". This is used to give the project its final shape and at the same time to wash it for the first time. To do this, soak your work in warm to cold water with a mild soap-free or special wool detergent. I use a homemade Marseille soap detergent , which is nothing more or less than 20% grated (real) Marseille soap in water (slightly heated to melt the soap). Simply immerse it in the water and leave it alone for at least 20 minutes . Then, gently pick it up without wringing it or letting it relax, and rinse it with clean water to remove any remaining soap. The next stage is spin-drying. As we want to avoid distorting the fabric, we don't twist it! You can first squeeze it between your hands to remove as much water as possible, then lay it flat in a towel and roll it up before walking on it to squeeze the garment. If this sounds like a strange process, I can assure you that it becomes very natural. Finally, it's very important to leave the garment to dry flat to prevent it from becoming misshapen. In general, we use a blocking mat which allows us to use combs to fix the final shape of the garment. A little patience with the drying process and you're done! If it's not stained , simply shake it outside to remove dust and refresh it, or even leave it to cool for a few hours in winter. If you're sceptical, give it a try - you'll be surprised! Of course, there's nothing to stop you giving your knitwear a bath once or twice a year. I'd advise you to do this in summer, as knitwear dries out more quickly in the heat, especially thick winter jumpers. If it's stained (which can of course happen), which I do in these cases if the stain is small, I rub it lightly with a damp cloth . It should go away. If not, you can always soak it again with a little Marseille soap as explained above. And what about plant-dyed wools ? At Knitty and Woolly , the wool is dyed in a workshop that uses traditional vegetable dyes . As this method only uses natural materials, it's normal that the care of the wool requires special attention . But here again, it's very simple . Plant dyes are sensitive to changes in pH . So say goodbye to harsh detergents and turn instead to eco-friendly detergents or homemade Marseille soap detergents. And that's all there is to it! To sum up , natural wool is fascinating because of its complexity and many properties . It doesn't need to be washed often, and that's better for everyone! You save water , energy and soap , so the impact on the environment is limited . And you avoid wearing clothes full of chemicals that are harmful to your health. Taking care of your woollen knitwear has never been easier , as there's not much to do, and I hope that, if you haven't already done so, you'll dare to knit with natural wool ! Don't hesitate to give me your feedback on how to look after your woollen knitwear. See you soon! Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly (1) Hassan MM, Carr CM. A review of the sustainable methods in imparting shrink resistance to wool fabrics. J Adv Res. 2019 Jan 31;18:39-60. doi: 10.1016/j.jare.2019.01.014. PMID: 30788174; PMCID: PMC6369147. (2) Liya Zhou, Xunwei Feng, Yanfeng Du, Yi Li. Characterization of Liquid Moisture Transport Performance of Wool Knitted Fabrics. Textile Research Journal . 2007;77(12):951-956.

It was a surprise that I had in store for you this spring, the arrival of a new colour in the Azun range of natural wool yarns from the Pyrenees, made in France! It's a warm, soft colour that I wanted to celebrate the softness of spring. So I'm delighted to introduce you to Quebracho Pink! Like the other colours in the range, it has been created using vegetable dyeing in the Myrobolan workshop, using traditional methods. It's a soft, luminous pink that differs from Acacia Pink in that it has a hint of yellow-orange. A warm colour that can be knitted on its own or combined with the other colours in the range! For example, this pink goes very well with the warmth of Rhubarb Yellow, or in a subtle gradient with Acacia Pink and Natural Ecru. This colour will also work wonderfully well alongside Bleu de Campêche, a deep, intense midnight blue with a violet tinge. I hope you like this new quebracho pink colour and that it inspires you for your future projects :) See you soon! Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly

Introducing the brand new collection of woven bracelets, the Sun collection. As with the Pyrenees collection, the bracelets are woven from natural Pyrenean wool, but this time with a touch of colour! Source of inspiration for this "Soleil" collection The bracelets in this collection were inspired by a Norwegian painter, Edvard Munch, and in particular by one of his paintings, which I was lucky enough to see at the Munch Museum in Oslo. It is his masterpiece The Sun (1911), which he placed at the centre of his monumental decor for the aula at the University of Oslo, thus expressing his fascination for light, the source of all life. When I entered the exhibition room, I was overcome with emotion at the grandeur and beauty of this painting, which depicts a sunrise over a rocky archipelago in Norway off the coast of Kragerø. The light in this painting, which is over four metres high and seven metres wide, is captivating and illuminates the neighbouring paintings, giving them a different dimension and symbolism. I knew then that I was going to draw inspiration from this painting for my future creations. So each bracelet has a coloured heart at its centre, surrounded by one or more contrasting colours to highlight it. The wool The wool, which comes from lourdaises and tarasconnaises ewes and is collected in the Val d'Azun and sorted by hand before being sent to the spinning mill in the Ariège to be washed. I then take the wool back to my workshop in Belgium, where I live, and spin it into yarn. The wool is natural and has not undergone any chemical treatment. The weft yarns used for the colours come from my own production of Azun Sport yarns, hand-dyed with plants by the Myrobolan workshop in Creuse. The ecru and dark brown colours are the natural colours of the sheep, the grey being obtained by mixing these two colours together. The warp yarn comes from the Fonty spinning mill in France. It's a 100% wool yarn, fine, soft and strong at the same time, which I really appreciate for my weaving. The sizes Each bracelet has a lobster clasp and a small forçat mesh extension chain that can be used to vary the size of the bracelet. Each length is indicated in the bracelet description. I also adapt to your needs. If the proposed sizes don't suit you, we can discuss creating a made-to-measure bracelet together. Don't hesitate to contact me by email at knittyandwoolly@gmail.com or via the contact form, I'll be delighted to help you. Packaging your bracelet Each bracelet is first protected by a sheet of silk paper, which is recyclable and contains no chlorine or acid. The bracelet is then packaged in a European-made box, made from FSC-certified natural cardboard and water-based glue. These boxes contain no foam, which I don't find useful here. The boxes are therefore recyclable, but the main idea is that you can reuse them to store your bracelet or other items of jewellery. Finally, each box is slipped into an organic cotton pouch that you can also reuse to carry all sorts of little things. I really like these pouches, which can easily be slipped into a toiletry bag, for example. I also use them to store my knitting accessories! With this collection, I wanted to convey the emotion that The sun gives me, as its light reveals the beauty of nature and its many colours. I hope you'll enjoy these new designs and feel like adding a touch of light to your everyday life. I hope to see you soon, Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly Choosing a woven bracelet created by Knitty and Woolly means : -adopting a little piece of the Pyrenees, wherever you are -giving yourself or a loved one a unique piece of jewellery, handmade with passion, that has meaning and tells a story -Treat yourself or others while understanding the manufacturing process and the raw materials used in the product. -support craftsmanship and my commitment to the wool industry Advice on caring for your bracelet What should I do if I get a stain? Wool is an exceptional natural fibre with many properties (see the Properties of wool page on my website). One of them is its ability to be self-cleaning and extremely dirt-repellent. It doesn't retain stains like other materials. If for any reason a stain gets on your bracelet, you can follow these recommendations: Soak the bracelet in cold or even lukewarm water (but not hot, and possibly with a mild soap-free detergent or a detergent compatible with wool), and rub very gently with your finger to remove it. Rinse with clean water, without rubbing. -Wax the bracelet by sandwiching it in a towel and pressing it gently, without wringing it. -Dry your bracelet flat. Other tips for looking after your bracelet -It's best not to shower while wearing your bracelet. The combination of hot water and rubbing will cause the wool to felt. Soaps such as shower gel could also damage it. -As with other items of jewellery, avoid pulling hard on it to avoid breaking the fasteners or deforming it.

Many of us love knitting sheep's wool, but do we really know what wool is? I'd like to shed a little light on the subject here, because wool is a complex (and fascinating!) fibre and there's a lot to be said for it. As you may have already noticed, raw wool has a greasy appearance. This is actually a wax with a complex chemical composition, which is used to make lanolin. The fibres are also covered in wool grease, another complex chemical mixture that solubilises in water. It is therefore important to wash the wool thoroughly to remove the grease and wool grease. Wool will lose up to twice its weight after washing! Wool fibre is made up of pith at its centre, surrounded by a cortex. Did you know that most of this cortex is made up of keratin, like our hair? Finally, the surface of the fibre is made up of cuticles, resembling scales that can open and close depending on the climatic conditions (see figure below). This characteristic of wool is its strength, and I'll tell you more about it in a blog post dedicated to caring for your knitwear. First of all, we need to distinguish wool, which has virtually no pith, from hair and jars, which have more pith. It's the latter that you don't want to find in knitting yarn, as these fibres are harder and therefore unpleasant to the touch! So it's important to sort the wool properly to remove the hair and the pith before considering turning it into yarn. Secondly, wool fibres are classified according to their diameter. For example, the finest fibres have a diameter of less than 22 micrometres, and the coarsest have a diameter of more than 36 micrometres. But these values are only averages. In fact, the fineness of wool varies greatly from one breed of sheep to another, from one farm to another within the same breed and even within the same flock. This is particularly true of ewes of the lourdaise breed. Wool from the same flock is very heterogeneous, so it's essential to find the best fibres to use to produce the knitting yarn. This is what I strive to do to offer you quality Pyrenean wool yarns! I hope this article has given you some answers about the structure of wool and don't hesitate to come back to me if you have any questions. Fanny Founder of Knitty and Woolly ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​

Here it is, it's done! I made my first pattern to knit a cowl. A small project that is easy and quick to make and perfect for experimenting with a few techniques (knit in the round, stripes, twisted ribs)! I warmly thank my testers who agreed to help me perfect the pattern, and their great versions are available on Instagram and on Ravelry! I used a worsted weight yarn held together with a lace silk&mohair yarn for even more softness! The pattern is adapted for a non-mohair yarn version. It is knitted in the round with 5 mm - 60 cm long circular needles. This pattern is available in French and English on my Ravelry account (#autumnstripescowl). Happy knitting!

When you have a creative passion, you want to share it, and why not inspire others to take up the adventure! In this post I'll be sharing my advice on how to get started with knitting without stress :) Do you want to start knitting but don't know where to begin? Which needles, which yarns, which pattern... and what is a sample? There's no need to get discouraged, just learn and progress step by step, without pressure. Personally, I learnt to knit when I was a child with my grandmother, so I don't particularly remember the first time I knitted or made my first stockinette stitches. This may frighten beginners, but there's nothing to worry about! I'm going to describe the key steps for getting started here, and I'll be sharing some tutorials soon! Which yarn to start with? There is a huge variety of yarns. Knitting is generally associated with sheep's wool, but new types of yarn are now emerging (including yarns made from plant-based or recycled materials). There are three main categories: -natural animal fibres: sheep's wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere, angora, etc. -plant fibres: cotton, hemp, linen, silk and nettle -synthetic fibres: acrylic, polyester. I've always preferred fibres from the first category, which are my first choice. To begin with, I don't recommend mohair-type yarns, which are generally a bit hard to handle, unless combined with a second, thicker yarn. You should also be aware that sheep's wool is made up of several sub-categories (the wool can be simply carded, or combed and even treated as 'superwash'). If you'd like to know more about these different categories, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'd be delighted to answer your questions and why not write a dedicated article :) Sometimes, some yarns are a mixture of wool and synthetic fibre (with various ratios). I much prefer 100% wool fibres, because I like to have a material that's warm for winter and cool for the summer months, while still favouring natural fibres. This choice is completely personal, so it's up to you to choose what you prefer; combining it with a synthetic yarn makes it possible to create more original yarns (in terms of colour and/or appearance), which can be very appreciated. What thickness of yarn should I start with? Without hesitation, I recommend a fairly thick thread! It's really easier to see the stitches and understand what you're doing. A very thin yarn will only complicate things, which is what you want to avoid :) You will see the different designations: -lace and fingering: the thinnest, knitted with needles 2 to 3.5 mm in diameter. -Sport and DK yarns: slightly thicker, knitted with needles 3 to 4 mm in diameter. -worsted and aran yarns: for needles 4 to 6 mm in diameter. -Bulky and chunky yarn: really thick, knitted with needles 7 to 10 mm in diameter for bulky yarn and 10 to 15 mm in diameter for chunky yarn. Needles up to 25mm in diameter are also available! So to start with, choose a yarn that can be knitted with at least 4 or 5 mm diameter needles. If you can test different thicknesses to see which one suits you best, that's even better! Knitty and Woolly yarns are available in two bases, Azun Sport and Azun Worsted. The Azun Worsted yarn is a good choice for beginners! What's more, the yarn doesn't split (which shows the very high quality of the spinning), and makes knitting easier when you're just starting out. Needles Have you ever browsed online haberdashery sites, in the knitting needles section? Between straight needles, circular needles, needles with interchangeable cables, mini needles and double point needles... There's plenty to pull out your hair! To begin with, I recommend choosing straight or circular needles (which are shorter than straight needles and linked together by a cable of variable length). However, getting to grips with them is not at all the same. I started knitting with straight needles, but now I have to admit that I prefer circular needles, as they are easier to handle and more pleasant to work with. What's more, it's perfectly possible to use circular needles to knit in rows back and forth, just as you would with straight needles. Given that most knitting patterns use circular needles, I think this is a good investment. If you have the opportunity to try out both, that's obviously the best thing, as everyone has their own sensations and tastes, but you could quickly be limited by the designs. Secondly, circular needles with interchangeable cables are really practical: depending on the size of the project, you can adapt the cable, which unscrews from the needle, while keeping the same needle size. This avoids having needles of a certain size for each length of cable (which can vary from 20 cm to 120 cm in intervals of 20 cm... which would be a lot!), but you'll still have to buy cables of different lengths. The option of fixed circular needles is still very interesting, if you don't want to go to the trouble of changing cables and needles, or if your range of knitting projects is rather limited (by which I mean, if you mainly knit caps or chokers, you'll more often use 60 cm and 80/100 cm needles, so you might as well have fixed needles). Personally, I knit with a mixture of these two types of circular needles! As for the material of the needles, here again there are several possible choices: metal, bamboo, wood or plastic. Apart from personal taste, the choice depends partly on the wool you're using: metal needles will be slippery (more so than wooden or plastic needles), so they're particularly suitable for mohair, for example. I've never tried plastic needles, so I can't give my opinion on them; wooden needles are generally favoured by knitters (I prefer them!). Finally, you may have heard of the magic-loop technique for knitting small diameters, such as socks, sleeves or the tip of a hat; for this technique you'll need circular needles with a 60 to 80 cm cable, but you can also use mini circular needles 23 or 30 cm long (cable and needles included), or double-point needles (4 needles are required and sold in sets). Personally, I've opted for these tiny needles and I love them! They come with fixed or interchangeable cables. It's worth noting that these are really tiny needles, which can be a bit tricky to hold... Finally, the diameter of the needles, expressed in millimetres, will depend on the thickness of the thread you choose (see Which thread to choose). When you buy wool, the needle size is normally indicated on the label! On my online shop, you'll find all the basic equipment, including beautiful wooden needles from KnitPro and stitch markers made in my workshop! Which pattern to start with? The headband This is the project I suggest to beginners who come to my workshops. You can knit a headband with less than 50g of wool, and it's a "useful" knit, an accessory that you can wear proudly afterwards. The easiest way to knit a headband is to knit a strip in moss stitch in rows going back and forth (so only single stitches), and sew the ends together to make a pretty bow on the front. The advantage is that you can knit it with circular needles, even if it's knitted in rows going back and forth. You'll need a cable at least 60 cm long to give you enough latitude between the two needles. What's more, it's quick to knit and good for morale when you start knitting! The cowl This is THE ideal project for getting started with circular knitting! It's knitted in a circular pattern and you only need one pair of circular needles (usually 60 cm). You'll be able to experiment (but without breaking the bank on materials) with right-sided jersey, more original stitches like ribbing, and a variety of colours (stripes, jacquard even for the most daring!). It's a great way to have fun, while learning the basic techniques of circular knitting (setting up stitches, joining in the round, folding over). The swatch... But before we get started, let's get back to the sample or swatch thing... I'm sure you've already heard about it, and if you haven't already, you will soon :) On the face of it, you'd be tempted to skip this stage, which seems a bit daunting because you're so keen to get started. But if you want your project to be a success and the final size to correspond to the model's intended size, it's an essential step! But what does it actually involve, and why is it so important? A sample is a piece of knitted fabric in which you have to count the number of stitches and rows obtained in a 10 cm by 10 cm square, after having 'blocked' it (i.e. washed it in a bath of cold to lukewarm water with a little washing-up liquid and then dried it flat with combs or blocking pins). When you choose a model, it is designed for a particular thread (thickness), combined with needles corresponding to its size. For example, you might be told: "sample (10 x 10 cm): 24 stitches x 34 rows with 3.75 mm needles". But everyone has their own "tension" when it comes to knitting: you may tend to knit a little loosely, or too tightly. As a result, the size of the sample may vary from one person to another and the final project may not have the intended dimensions. For example, if you knit too tightly (so you've got more stitches and rows in the 10x10 cm square), you'll need to choose a larger needle size. This way, the final project will be the right size! So even though this step may seem tedious (because you have to block the sample and it takes a bit of time), it's very important. This is also the case if you want to create your own pattern: for a 30 cm wide scarf, for example, you need to know how many stitches to make to get 30 cm and how many rows to make to get the desired length of scarf. You don't need to buy a pattern for a scarf. You can decide to create it yourself from A to Z, taking the time to make a sample to estimate the dimensions. Thread, needles...and that's it? Well, not quite. It's very useful to have a wool needle for any seams, a pair of scissors, stitch markers for knitting in the round (and marking the start of the round or whatever), and a ruler for measuring your sample. If you have crochet hooks, they are also very useful in knitting, for example to repair a mistake or to lift stitches on a neckline. And there you have it, now you've got all you need to start knitting without stress! And if you need any help, I'm here to guide you! Good luck to you :) #bloggingtips #WixBlog